And I'd still be worried. And I think the heat questions you raise may be important. In particular if heating raises temperatures above the rated temperature allowed for the pipe in normal use you've already violated the manufacturer's specifications and advice. In an era of alternative "facts" my opinion is that we're best served by finding the most thoughtful, expert data we can from the most-reliable sources.
In the case of many construction products and materials, the manufacturer has a lot to lose if their product is not successful in application. And the manufacturer has often a large base of field experience from its own tests and from its customers. So I tend to bet on their side: see what the manufacturer recommends for use of their product. ASTM and other standards are equally important. Pipe, fittings, fabrications or structures with excessive damage should not be installed.
Damage that occurs after installation may require that the damaged pipe or component be removed and replaced. The damaged section should be removed and replaced.
Improper butt fusions must be cut out and re-done from the beginning. Poorly joined socket or electrofusion fittings must be removed and replaced. Poorly joined saddle fittings must be removed by cutting out the main pipe section, or, if the main is undamaged, made unusable by cutting the branch outlet or chimney off the saddle fitting, and installing a new saddle fitting on a new section of main.
It must be removed and replaced. Squeeze-off damaged pipe must be removed and replaced. Thank you for the PVC gluing article. I have a question about several techniques I've seen on you tube regarding separating previously solvent welded pipes. If you are familiar with the PVC pipe reamer made by Reed manufacturing, whereby you attach reamer to typical drill, and then using the reamer which acts like a rotary wood plane, and reams out the fitting;.
I'm trying to figure out if you can successfully re glue, or if the original engineering specifications for the PVC pipe don't allow even millimeter type changes for a successful resolvent.
By the way this is for drainage and not supply. The follow up question is the using of a heat gun to heat the fitting and then pry out old pipe. Again this is a you tube item, and if you did this technique, while you have successfully removed the fitting, did the heat cause a weakness in the other end of the fitting that you had no intention of separating.
Anyway, that's a lot to read but I'd appreciate anyone's experience with either of these methods. I may have to replace an entire FIMCO sprinkler distributor indexing valve if simply replacing the top cover will not work properly. I have 4 ea. Thank you for an interesting question: looking for a long-set time or working time PVC pipe adesive. In general, when choosing a PVC cement for an application where you need a longer initial set time, choose a "heavy bodied" PVC cement.
You'll see that characteristic as I list the types of PVC cement from several manufacturers below. Hercules makes a heavy duty long-working-time PVC cement, shown above, No.
Schedules 40 and The Slow Set versions Hercules makes both the gray and a clear slow set PVC cement will give you about twice that, or 1 to 2 minutes of set time. You might call for a more-clear answer: contact Hercules customer service at the phone or email we give above.
That product is described below. Weld-On has a chart of Weld-On R solvent cement average set and cure times that gives an idea of the effect of temperature on set time.
So if you can do your gluing on a cool morning you'll have more set time to adjust your fittings. PVC glues are permanent so knowing if the application is permanent or temporary is of great importance.
Imagine making a sprinkling toy for your kids and using the PVC glue for it knowing that you still have to take it down after the season. The PVC glue is the wrong choice for you here, and you might have to try out other options. These are the directions I followed when I joined my pipes together. I had to cover my nose, yes!
But Oatey does it for me all the time. I believe the cure time is dependent on the size of the pipe, humidity and weather condition, and the tightness of the fit. The weather condition allows for quick drying in a dry environment and slower drying in wet or humid climates.
A lot of people have different ideas on when to turn on the water after applying PVC glue. Some people have said 15 minutes, some 30 minutes, some 2 hours , etc. As I have said earlier, it depends on the pipe size and weather conditions majorly.
Left attached, burrs can both catch debris flowing through the pipes, causing clogs, or compromise the effectiveness of the seal. After you apply the primer, you only have about 10 seconds before you need to apply the cement.
After that, you will immediately insert the pipe into the fitting. Twist the pipe a quarter of the way around as you push it into the fitting. This will allow the glue to spread, offering a tighter fit. Hold the pipe and fitting together firmly for at least 30 seconds; any less and the pipe could pop back out. No sanding , no chamfering and no wiping with primer. As you may know, PVC joints are not glued together exactly, but fused through a chemical change.
The softer the outer layer of your PVC , the better it will cement in your joint. Usually PVC jobs require about half the amount of primer as they do cement. In short, primer is your friend. The glue itself is not very strong. But, it's not the glue that really holds the pipe joints. The " glue " is really a solvent for the plastic pipe. It chemically "melts" the plastic and the plastic hardens back again. ABS is better at handling severely cold temperatures, but it can warp with exposure to direct sunlight.
PVC is thought to be better at muffling the sound of running water. The only connection that refused to come apart was the ABS to ABS ; the plastic would probably rip apart before that connection would fail.
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